Propagation By Buds
Do You Understand Propagation By Buds?
It is the business of the farmer to make plants grow, or, as it
is generally called, to propagate plants. This he does in one of two ways: by buds (that is, by small pieces
cut from parent plants), or by seeds. The chief aim in both methods should be to secure in the most
convenient manner the best-paying plants.
Many plants are most easily and quickly propagated by buds; for example, the grape,
red raspberry, fig, and many others that we cultivate for the flower only, such as the carnation, geranium,
rose, and begonia.

Fig. 41.
Brighton pollinated by 1, Salem; 2, Creveling; 3,
Lindley; 4, Brighton; 5, Self-pollinated; 6, Nectar; 7, Jefferson; 8, Niagara

Fig. 42. Geranium Cutting
Dotted line shows
depth to which cutting
should be planted
In growing plants from cuttings, a piece is taken from the kind of plant that one
wishes to grow. The greatest care must be exercised in order to get a healthy cutting. If we take a cutting
from a poor plant, what can we expect but to grow a poor plant like the one from which our cutting was taken?
On the other hand, if a fine, strong, vigorous, fruitful plant be selected, we shall expect to grow just such
a fine, healthy, fruitful plant.
We expect the cutting to make exactly the same variety of plant as the parent stock.
We must therefore decide on the variety of berry, grape, fig, carnation, or rose that we wish to propagate,
and then look for the strongest and most promising plants of this variety within our reach. The utmost care
will not produce a fine plant if we start from poor stock.
What qualities are most desirable in a plant from which cuttings are to be taken?
First, it should be productive, hardy, and suited to your climate and your needs; second, it should be
healthy. Do not take cuttings from a diseased plant, since the cutting may carry the disease.

Fig. 43. Grape Cutting
Showing depth to
which cutting should
be planted
Cuttings may be taken from various parts of the plant, sometimes even from parts of
the leaf, as in the begonia (Fig. 46). More often, however, they are drawn from parts of the stem (Figs.
43-45). As to the age of the twig from which the cutting is to be taken, Professor Bailey says: "For most
plants the proper age or maturity of wood for the making of cuttings may be determined by giving the twig a
quick bend; if it snaps and hangs by the bark, it is in proper condition. If it bends without breaking, it is
too young and soft or too old. If it splinters, it is too old and woody." Some plants, as the geranium (Fig.
42), succeed best if the cuttings from which they are grown are taken from soft, young parts of the plant;
others, for example, the grape or rose, do better when the cutting is made from more mature wood.

Fig. 44. Carnation Cutting
Cuttings may vary in size and may include one or more buds. After a hardy, vigorous
cutting is made, insert it about one half or one third of its length in soil. A soil free from organic matter
is much the best, since in such soil the cuttings are much less liable to disease. A fine, clean sand is
commonly used by professional gardeners. When cuttings have rooted well—this may require a month or more—they may be transplanted to larger
pots.
Sometimes, instead of cutting off a piece and rooting it, portions of branches are
made to root before they are separated from the parent plant. This method is often followed, and is known as
layering. It is a simple process. Just bend the tip of a bough down and bury it in the earth (see Fig.
47). The black raspberry forms layers naturally, but gardeners often aid it by burying the over-hanging tips
in the earth, so that more tips may easily take root. Strawberries develop runners that root themselves in a
similar fashion.

Fig. 45. Rose Cutting
Grafts and buds are really cuttings which, instead of being buried in sand to produce
roots of their own, are set on the roots of other plants.
Grafting and budding are practiced when these methods are more convenient than
cuttings or when the gardener thinks there is danger of failure to get plants to take root as cuttings.
Neither grafting nor budding is, however, necessary for the raspberry or the grape, for these propagate most
readily from cuttings.
It is often the case that a budded or grafted plant is more fruitful than a plant on
its own roots. In cases of this kind, of course, grafts or buds are used.
The white, or Irish, potato is usually propagated from pieces of the potato itself.
Each piece used for planting bears one eye or more. The potato itself is really an underground
stem and the eyes are buds. This method of propagation is therefore really a peculiar
kind of cutting.
Since the eye is a bud and our potato plant for next year is to develop from this bud,
it is of much importance, as we have seen, to know exactly what kind of plant our potato comes from.
If the potato is taken from a small plant that had but a few poor potatoes in the hill, we may expect the bud
to produce a similar plant and a correspondingly poor crop. We must see to it, then, that our seed potatoes
are drawn from vines that were good producers, because new potato plants are like the plants from which they
were grown. Of course when our potatoes are in the bin we cannot tell from what kind of plants they came. We
must therefore select our seed potatoes in the field. Seed potatoes should always be selected from
those hills that produce most bountifully. Be assured that the increased yield will richly repay this care in
selecting. It matters not so much whether the seed potato be large or small; it must, however, come from a
hill bearing a large yield of fine potatoes.

Fig. 46.
Begonia-Leaf Cutting
Sweet-potato plants are produced from shoots, or growing buds, taken from the potato
itself, so that in their case too the piece that we use in propagating is a part of the original plant, and
will therefore be like it under similar conditions. Just as with the Irish potato, it is important to know
how[Pg 57] good a yielder you are planting. You should watch during harvest and select for
propagation for the next year only such plants as yield best.
We should exercise fully as much care in selecting proper individuals from which to
make a cutting or a layer as we do in selecting a proper animal to breed from. Just as we select the finest
Jersey in the herd for breeding purposes, so we should choose first the variety of plant we desire and then
the finest individual plant of that variety.
If the variety of the potato that we desire to raise be Early Rose, it is not enough
to select any Early Rose plants, but the very best Early Rose plants, to furnish our seed.

Fig. 47. Layering
It is not enough to select large, fine potatoes for cuttings. A large potato may not
produce a bountifully yielding plant. It will produce a plant like the one that produced it. It may be
that this one large potato was the only one produced by the original plant. If so, the plant that grows from
it will tend to be similarly unproductive. Thus you see the importance of selecting in the field a plant
that has exactly the qualities desired in the new plant.

Fig. 48. Currant Cutting
One of the main reasons why gardeners raise plants from buds instead of from seeds is
that the seed of many plants will not produce plants like the parent. This failure to "come true," as it is
called, is sometimes of value, for it occasionally leads to improvement. For example, suppose that a thousand
apple or other fruit or flower seeds from plants usually propagated by cuttings be planted; it may be that
one out of a thousand or a million will be a very valuable plant. If a valuable plant be so
produced, it should be most carefully guarded, multiplied by cuttings or grafts, and introduced far and wide.
It is in this way that new varieties of fruits and flowers are produced from time to time.
Sometimes, too, a single bud on a tree will differ from the other buds and will
produce a branch different from the other branches. This is known as bud variation. When there is thus
developed a branch which happens to be of a superior kind, it should be propagated by cuttings just as you
would propagate it if it had originated from a seed.
Mr. Gideon of Minnesota planted many apple seeds, and from them all raised one tree
that was very fruitful, finely flavored, and able to withstand the cold Minnesota winter. This tree he
multiplied by grafts and named the Wealthy apple. It is said that in giving this one apple to the world he
benefited mankind to the value of more than one million dollars. It will be well to watch for any valuable
bud or seed variant and never let a promising one be lost. Plants grown in this way from seeds are usually
spoken of as seedlings.

A LUSCIOUS AND EASILY GROWN BERRY
Plants to be propagated from
Buds
The following list gives the names and methods by which our common garden fruits and
flowers are propagated:
- Figs: use cuttings 8 to 10 inches long or
layer.
- Grapes: use long cuttings, layer, or graft upon old
vines.
- Apples: graft upon seedlings, usually crab seedlings one
year old.
- Pears: bud upon pear seedlings.
- Cherries: bud upon cherry stock.
- Plums: bud upon peach stock.
- Peaches: bud upon peach or plum
seedlings.
- Quinces: use cuttings or layer.
- Blackberries: propagate by suckers; cut from parent
stem.
- Black raspberries: layer; remove old
stem.
- Red raspberries: propagate by root-cuttings or
suckers.
- Strawberries: propagate by runners.
- Currants and gooseberries: use long cuttings
(these plants grow well only in cool climates;
if attempted in warm climates, set in cold exposure).
- Carnations, geraniums, roses,
begonias, etc.: propagate by
cuttings rooted in sand and then transplanted to small pots.
Learn ore by doing this exercise:
Propagate fruits (grape, fig, strawberry) of various kinds; also ornamental plants.
How long does it take them to root? Geraniums rooted in the spring will bloom in the fall. Do you know any one who
selects seed potatoes properly? Make a careful selection of seed at the next harvest-time.
Plant Seeding
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